9 January 2020

Welcome to 2020,

Firstly let me wish everyone the very best for the New Year. Sadly it has not been the best start for many Australians with the terrible bush fires around the country. I know that some past Byroads travellers have been doing it tough. My thoughts are with those who have been affected in anyway by this fire disaster. 

At the moment I am writing from Argentina. At the start of February I will fly from here to the Middle East to join those travelling on the Byroads trips in Jordan and Egypt. I'm really looking forward to getting back into my old stomping ground and showing people around. It's a fascinating region of the world. 

Following the launch of the Byroads trip to Ecuador and the Galapagos in 2021 I have received enquiries from some people asking about the difference between the wildlife cruise offered in the Byroads trip and that of Island Hopping. I explain the differences as well as the pros and cons.

I have also researched an article on the ancient Kyrgyz tradition of hunting with the golden eagle and written about a small church in the Mexican state of Chiapas which has some very unusual and unconventional practices.

Finally I feature a 300 year old caravansari that is now a hotel used by our Byroads groups on the South Caucasus trip in the small nation of Azerbaijan

Happy travelling and best wishes,

Steve

The Mysterious Church of San Juan Bautista - Mexico

Just 10 km from the popular tourist town of San Cristobal de las Casas is the village of San Juan Chamula.  The village is almost totally indigenous and while Spanish can be spoken and understood here most in the community speak their indigenous language. 

One of the more fascinating features of this Tzotzil township is the church of San Juan Bautista. This simple church is filled with colourful candles, and smoke from burning copal resin incense. Along the walls of the church are Catholic saints who actually represent the old Mayan gods.  Candles are lit and  people sit on the floor and pray below the saints. The local form of Catholicism is a blend of pre-conquest Maya customs, Spanish Catholic traditions, and subsequent innovations. There are no pews in the church, and the floor area is covered in a carpet of green pine needles. Curanderos (medicine men) diagnose medical, psychological or ‘evil-eye’ afflictions and prescribe remedies such as candles of specific colours and sizes, specific flower petals or feathers, or in a dire situation, a live chicken. The specified remedies are brought to a healing ceremony. Chamula families kneel on the floor of the church with sacrificial items, stick candles to the floor with melted wax, drink ceremonial cups of Posh, artisanal sugar-cane-based liquor and even coca cola and chant prayers in an archaic dialect of Tzotzil. Visitors can enter into the church and quietly observe these unusual rituals. It is a moving and quite spiritual experience.  The Catholic Church long ago disassociated itself with the practices at the church.

The church is just one of the highlights on the Byroads 'Mexico & the Yucatan' tour which starts in Mexico City on the 5th of March 2021. Click here for all the details.

Kyrgyzstan - The Ancient Tradition of Hunting with Eagles

Hunting with the golden eagle is a tradition that dates back to the Mongol conquest of Central Asia around the 12th and 13th centuries. At the time a fine eagle and good horse cost about the same as each other. Although the practice is slowly disappearing, hunting with the Golden Eagle can still be seen in certain regions of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan.  

Hunting takes place riding a horse which allows a rider to carry an eagle on a special device fitted to the saddle. Sent out to hunt foxes, baby deer and other small animals, the eagle dives down on their prey from height and kills them. Eagles often will hunt in pairs, just as they would in the wild. A skilled hunter and his bird can typically catch 50 foxes, a dozen badgers and several lynx and wolves in a 4 month season starting in late autumn. Eagles rarely fail to catch and kill their prey, usually by breaking the neck in its powerful claws.

The capture, training and keeping of eagles is a highly ritualised activity, and both the Kazakhs and the Kyrgyz are experts. Training eagles takes between 3 and 4 years. It is done by one person and requires constant daily attention. Most of the birds, which can have a life expectancy of 40 years, are caught young, hooded and trained to follow special commands. Not all eagles can be trained, but those that do, show intense loyalty to their master. Although never tethered they always return after killing their prey.

The season for hunting with eagles is from October to February. The larger eagles malt during the summer months and do not fly.  The Byroads ‘Kyrgyzstan & Uzbekistan’ tour gets underway in the Kyrgyz capital of Bishkek on the 27th of September 2020 and includes a hunting demonstration with the Golden Eagle.  Click here for full details.

Feature Accommodation - Caravanserai Hotel - Sheki - Azerbaijan

The town of Sheki in Azerbaijan sits close to the Georgian border and its 18th Century caravanserai is home for a night for those travelling on the Byroads South Caucasus trip which takes in the tiny nations of Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia.

Although the hotel offers basic 2 Star accommodation the caravanserai is steeped in history and the unique experience staying in this magnificent building certainly makes up for the lack of fancy amenities. The historical complex is actually two converted 18th-century caravanserais, forming a twin-level arcade of sturdy arches around a pretty central courtyard. Sheki once had five working caravanserais as the trade routes between Baku and Tbilisi and a spur route across the mountains to Dagestan used to meet here. 

The next 16 Days Byroads 'South Caucasus' tour starts in Baku on the 15th of May 2020.  Click here for full details.

Galapagos Islands - Take a Wildlife Cruise or Island Hop? 

With the number of vessels permitted to offer wildlife cruises in the waters of the Galapagos now being strictly controlled a new type of tourism has emerged in the Galapagos.  Known as 'Island Hopping' those content with a more limited wildlife experience are opting to stay in hotels on the main islands and then travel out by speed-boat to permitted islands on day tours to observe the unique wildlife found in the Galapagos.  I've travelled several times to the Galapagos and have experienced both wildlife cruising and island hopping.  Here are some pros and cons of the two:

Galapagos Cruising - Pros

You’ll be able to get a bigger picture understanding of the islands: There is time to sail to more remote islands that can only be reached by taking a cruise, such as Genovesa, in addition to stops on the more popular islands.

You’ll be able to see much more in the same amount of time:  Cruises navigate at night, you’ll be able to fall asleep at one destination and awake the next morning at the next. Few daylight hours are spent in transit, so you can use your time more efficiently.

It’s easy sailing: Part of the experience when not on zodiac or shore excursions is that you can get to sit back, relax, and enjoy the views. The itinerary is set, meals are planned and everything you need is on the boat. The crew is there to handle everything for you.

Safety:  Cruise boats in the Galapagos are designed for travel in all seasons and carry the full suite of safety equipment. 

Galapagos Cruising - Cons

Motion sickness:  No matter whether cruising or island hopping rough weather can cause motion sickness.  If you are prone to severe sea sickness or bringing small children along you may feel more comfortable on a larger vessel. The trade-off is that they carry significantly more people so your wildlife experience can feel a little more crowded.

No wifi: Unlike a lodge, you won’t have wifi on the boat. For some wanting to unplug and unwind this is certainly a pro, but for those who need to be connected it’s important to be aware of this in advance so you can plan accordingly. 

Hotel Based Island Hopping - Pros

This option involves staying in hotels on the larger islands and hopping back and forth between the different islands each day. 

Flexibility: While many appreciate cruises for the planned out itinerary, some travellers simply need to be able to change their plans up until the last minute. Cruises have fixed dates, whereas hotels are usually available for any time frame.

More time on land: For those who want to explore the island where there hotel is located this can be done during unscheduled time. On a cruise, you’ll be spending most downtime on the vessel, whereas hotel-stayers will be on land and can hike in the islands by day and go out at night to restaurants and bars. For those who aren’t fans of the sea, you can base fewer of your activities there. 

Hotel-Based Island Hopping - Cons

On water travel less convenient and/or comfortable:  The most common way to get from island to island is by speedboat or small cabin cruiser. For those who were discouraged by the motion of a cruise boat or ship, this will be a faster yet much bumpier ride.  In some instances you can fly from island to island, but this comes with less flexibility than utilising speedboats.

More time in transit: Those staying in hotels will need to use daylight hours to get from island to island so there is a lot of travel time going back and forth.  Whether it’s by plane or speedboat, getting around will consume more of your time.

You’ll miss out on several sites: Some because you’ll spend more time in transit and less at destinations, and others that can only be accessed by cruise boats. As pointed out above, the further and lesser-touched islands can only be reached by cruise boat (no speed boats or planes access them). For many visitors, these are a highlight as they offer unique landscapes and wildlife not found on the other islands. If you are staying on land you’ll have to know that you won’t have options for accessing them. 
 

In conclusion it’s a matter of preferences, and what you hope to accomplish during the trip. On a cruise you’ll see much more, and spend more time relaxing as the vessel does the work for you.  For travellers who don’t enjoy the sailing experience or are unable to book a cruise during the travel window they have then staying on land will be a fine option for exploring parts of the archipelago. The Byroads Ecuador & the Galapagos tour which includes a 7 night cruise on-board MY Fragata gets underway in April 2021. This is when the weather is warmer, the seas are calmer and underwater visibility is good. Click here for all the details.