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Dear

Settling into my Norwegian Air flight to Los Angeles on Saturday, I was reading a newspaper in which there was an article about airlines competing to offer the most luxurious experience – describing them as “five-star hotels in the sky”. Flat beds – even suites – are becoming the norm at the front of the plane. Of course the pricing means there’s only a select few who will ever know what it’s like to shower on-board and have your own butler at 30,000ft.

Yet there’s something that, in my opinion, no airline seems to have properly cracked – its food offering. Across all classes, I don’t quite understand why airlines and their consultant Michelin chefs still think people want a three-course meal with the glorified 'chicken or beef'. There’s such a gap in the market for an airline to shake things up and sort out their menu with a focus healthier, lighter options when up in the skies.

Have a good week.

Adam


Duddell's

Next week sees the long-awaited opening of Duddell’s in London Bridge. The Michelin-starred original serves classic Cantonese dishes at its Hong Kong site and will bring these to London: expect Peking duck, XO beef, lobster noodles and haute dim sum. In fact, there will be an open dim sum kitchen for diners to watch the intricate bites being created – and the restaurant as a whole sounds like a study in elegance.

Pure Filth

Gizzi Erskine was early to right-size the whole clean-eating fad with her book Healthy Appetite. Now she’s paired up with nutritionist Rosemary Ferguson to launch Pure Filth, dishes they call “healthy food for hedonists”, that have been extensively tested to be full of flavour. Those wishing to boost their veggie intake in an indulgent way can visit the Pure Filth three-weekend pop-up at Tate Modern before the pair open a permanent site next year. Further information here.

Cojean

Still on healthy food, Cojean opens a second London outpost of its otherwise Parisian chain next week. Berkeley Street joins Ludgate Hill offering a range of nutritious fast food, from veggie lasagne to green curries, vegan pudding pots (plus less abstemious, seasonal, dishes like turkey bloomers and spiced biscuits). There’s space for 58 across two floors at the Mayfair site. CODE applauds Cojean’s commitment to give 10 per cent of its profits to anti-poverty charity the Nourrir Aimer Foundation.

Forza Win

An evolution is happening at popular shared-table restaurant Forza Win. The last few years has seen it grow from a moving, ticket-only event to having a permanent location in Peckham. Now that space has been revamped and reopened – with a new head chef and a more straightforward way to book. Michael Lavery, late of Terroirs and The River Café, will be cooking up classic Italian dishes at very competitive prices.

VIVI

Is it ‘veevee’ or is it ‘sixsix’? CODE isn’t quite sure but no doubt all will become clear before this new restaurant opens next April in the revamped Centre Point. Hospitality group Rhubarb is behind VIVI, which will have a nostalgic sixties British menu featuring chicken a la king and banana splits and a similarly retro décor – but it’ll be in the bridge link of the extremely modern Oxford Street development.

Hero of Maida

As he discussed in the current edition of CODE Quarterly, Henry Harris is in charge of bringing the much-missed Truscott Arms pub back to life. Now it’s been announced that when it does reopen in March, it will be named Hero of Maida. It references both an ancient battle in Maida (Calabria) but also new owners Harcourt Inns rescuing the site from becoming luxury flats. We expect a few choruses of “We can be heroes” in the pub on a Friday night.

Jack Solomons

Another retro idea is opening in a basement on Great Windmill Street. It’s named for a forties boxer who had a gym here – but the punches now will be alcoholic ones, as Jack Solomons Club is a speakeasy bar. It’s a big space, licenced for 390, and there will be plenty of cocktails featuring the boxer’s favourite spirit, scotch. The late-into-the-night spot kicks off next week – sounds like a good December hideaway.

Ichiba

CODE are fans of the new Japan Centre takeaway counter (supersized katsu curry always hits the spot), so the news that a huge Japanese food hall will open next March in Westfield London is most welcome. In fact, it will be the biggest in Europe, enough to sate the legions of shoppers who roam the Shepherds Bush site every day – 200 covers and open kitchens to watch the chefs at work, as well as ingredients to buy.

Robin Gill

Never one to sit still, Robin Gill is evolving his restaurant empire again. The latest news is that he is closing The Manor, the restaurant closest to mothership The Dairy, at the end of the year, and will reopen it in late January as Sorella. This heralds quite a change for the site – it will become an Italian restaurant – but Gill worked in Italy for some years and has spent a lot of time with head chef Dean Parker (above right) researching the menu, so we feel in safe hands.

Benjamin Hofer

The Corinthia Hotel has announced two major new appointments, via its MD Thomas Kochs. The first is Benjamin Hofer, who joins as director of F&B, bringing experience from Hotel Café Royal, Fera and The Berkeley. Also new at the hotel is Daniele Quattromini, who becomes operations manager for the hotel’s restaurant The Northall, and has previously worked at Cliveden House and Lusso Catering.

jobs

Assistant Manager,
Six Portland Road


Six Portland Road is a 36-cover restaurant located in Holland Park, west London. We are looking for an assistant manager to join our small team and help with the day-to-day management of the restaurant. An enthusiasm and knowledge of wine is required, ideally with Advanced WSET or the equivalent experience. An understanding of cashing up, stocktakes and general restaurant management is essential. Excellent spoken and written English vital.

Click here to read more and apply

Head Chef, Milk


A rare opportunity to join a south London institution at the highest level. Since 2012 Milk has been paving the way in London for modern, quality driven antipodean café food & coffee. At Milk we want to serve the most delicious and exciting food we possibly can and our Head Chef will work creatively and practically to facilitate this over our two sites, Milk and Milkteeth. Our kitchens are fastidiously organised to ensure consistency and quality over thousands of covers a week.

Click here to read more and apply

jobs  

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Tanya Gold enjoys dinner at the new restaurant at her favourite hotel, the Connaught

How good restaurant chains stay on top of their game

CEOs’ favourite London restaurants for business pow-wows

Mon 20 Nov

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Weds 22 Nov

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Sun 26 Nov



The Dumbwaiter is always fascinated as to chef’s other curricular activities (no, not that!). He discovered at dinner at Club Gascon last week that chef owner Pascal Aussignac goes to New Covent Garden market every Tuesday at 5am to pick flowers for the restaurant and then does his own flower displays. C’est bon.

Jourdan Dunn seems to love her London restaurants. In an interview last week, the model mentioned how she’s a big fan of Clutch Chicken, Red Rooster and Rum Kitchen. After collecting his Knighthood from Buckingham Palace, Mo Farah was spotted tucking into lunch at Holborn Dining Room at the Rosewood. The Dumbwaiter wonders whether Mo tried one of chef Calum Franklin’s pies.

While checking out the new Smoking Goat in Shoreditch last week, The Dumbwaiter noticed a suit tucked amongst the east London crowd. It’s fine though – it was Esquire editor Alex Bilmes and it was no doubt a Kilgour number.

From Shoreditch to St James’s Market. Click here to read The Dumbwaiter’s best bites of the week.


Patty & Bun Goodge Street

Every day | 25% off total bill



Hutong | The Shanghai Bar

Sunday - Wednesday | 25% off total bill



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