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Moscato is all the rage these days. It is a very refreshing, low alcohol (half the normal) white wine with a hint of fizz to it.
There are plenty of Moscatos on offer from Australian producers - our two suggestions are both from Rutherglen in northern Victoria - the All Saints Moscato ($14.25) and the Campbells Moscato ($17.10). Both are low-alcohol, and have a faint fizz ("frizzante"). I like them because they cover three food bases: as an aperitif, with fruit desserts, and especially with cheese.
The "real" Moscato is Moscato d’Asti: a lightly sweet sparkling wine produced in the town of Asti, in the Piedmont section of northern Italy.
To quote from the Moscato winemaking book Of the Excellence of Wines That Are Made on the Mountain of Turin and How to Make Them:
"The stems have to first be removed from the grapes right before pressing, then the must (crushed grape juice prior to filtration) is fermented separate from the skins. Then the juice is repeatedly filtrated until it runs clean."
All sounds very modern: save that the book was written over four hundred years ago, in 1606!
Our two favourite Moscato d'Astis are the Alasia ($21.85) and in particular the quite brilliant La Spinetta Moscato d'Asti Bricco Quaglia ($32.30).
What makes Moscato d’Asti special you ask? Well, it’s many things all rolled up into one, but it starts with the perfect adaptation over centuries to the home turf. Layer in a unique terroir with precipitously steep south facing hillsides, manual harvesting of all grapes, and the gentle sparkling nature of the wine, and you have freshness and delicacy that other Moscato producers can only dream about.
The aroma of a d'Asti is flirtatious, seductive, pure, true and generous.
Increasingly I'm offering a Moscato d'Asti as an aperitif ahead of Champagne: half the price, half the alcohol and just as much flavour. This stuff is fun to down.
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