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Dear

Walking into Quinsou, a cosy 32-cover restaurant in St Germain in Paris last Thursday lunchtime, the first thing that caught my eye was a poster saying “Work Hard & Be Nice to People”. Towards the end of our meal, chef-patron Antonin Bonnet came out to our table for a chat and he mentioned his philosophy on looking after customers. “I take better care of my staff, so they in turn take better care of our customers.” This industry may be based around the simple act of feeding people, but it’s the human element that so often makes a meal memorable and defines hospitality.

For more news, features, interviews and opinion on our industry, the latest issue of CODE Quarterly is out now and is also available online here.

Finally, may I also take this opportunity to wish you a Merry Christmas and all the best for 2018; thank you for all your continued support. We’ll be back with the first Bulletin of the year on Monday 8 January.

Adam


Corbin & King

A majority shareholding in the fabled Corbin & King restaurant business is being sold to Bangkok hoteliers Minor International, CODE understands. Chris Corbin and Jeremy King will continue in their roles in the new partnership and their popular restaurants, including The Wolseley and The Delaunay, are unaffected. This deal is just the latest in a swathe of interest in British brands by Thai investors.

Cora Pearl

The team behind Kitty Fisher’s have announced the name and location of their second restaurant. Cora Pearl, on Henrietta Street in Covent Garden, will open in spring and is named (like its sister restaurant) after a society courtesan. And rather like Kitty Fisher’s it’s a petite space over two floors, with 60 covers, and a kitchen to be led by George Barson (above), who’s been head chef at the original Shepherd Market restaurant for a year.

39 Steps Coffee Haus

Named not for the Hitchcock movie, this bijou coffee shop references the number of processes from bean to cup when made properly. And proper coffee is what will be on offer at 39 Steps, with raw ingredients from named farmers and techniques to extract the very best flavours, when it opens in January. The attention to detail suggests London’s coffee competition is still growing; meanwhile there are soups, salads, sandwiches and cakes on the menu to moderate all that caffeine.

Bread Ahead

CODE is a big fan of Bread Ahead, and their thoughtful response to the Borough Market attacks that affected their business features in our current Quarterly magazine. Now some happy news, they are to launch on 5 January in Soho, on Beak Street – with the expected array of breads, pastries and bakes will also come hot breakfasts and a new emphasis on lunch dishes.

Kanada-Ya

In March, one of London’s favourite ramen shops, Kanada-Ya, will launch its third site, this time on Upper Street. Praised for the rich stock that makes up the soups, this branch will add other dishes such as gyoza and a small but potent selection of cocktails. The 55-cover restaurant will be open for lunch and dinner – a good addition to the Islington food scene.

Ruya

Grosvenor Street is the location for a new restaurant inspired by the Anatolian region – and if you’re not sure what that comprises, the restaurateur Umut Özkanca hails from Istanbul, although the dishes will be inspired by the full reach of the Asian-most parts of Turkey and beyond. Ruya is due to open in the spring, and is being designed by Conran and Partners.

Food debate

The effect that Deliveroo, Uber Eats et al are having on the restaurant scene was the subject of a Courier Talks debate last week at Mortimer House and there were interesting statistics discussed. Bleecker Burgers’ Zan Kaufman said orders had risen by 250 per cent in the last six months, while Uber’s Toussaint Wattinne claimed that 60-70 per cent of those who order would not otherwise visit a restaurant. How will this affect competition and contracts? Food for thought…

National Geographic

Our appetite (sorry) for reading about food doesn’t seem to be slowing down. Now a new magazine has launched into the busy market, but it offers something a little different. Indeed, National Geographic Food has a similar mix of beautiful visuals and thorough examination of subjects to its sister travel publication. The first issue has just launched with some strong food-world contributors; there’s a subscription offer on its site.

Scott Hallsworth

The man previously behind Kurobata has his eye on a new restaurant, but for Scott Hallsworth to make Freak Scene transform from a pop-up to permanent in Smithfield, he’s looking for crowdfunding. He’s launched a Kickstarter page and the rewards will put some backers right into the freak scene itself – with a private dinner and launch party tickets up for grabs.

Gino Tighe

The Petit Pois bistro on Hoxton Square is a little treasure, so CODE is pleased to hear that new head chef Gino Tighe, having formerly worked at Fera at Claridge’s and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal among other places, intends to further develop the menu. Diners can expect classic Parisian dishes and modern bistronomy in a cosy setting.

jobs

Kitchen opening team, Ollie Dabbous' new dining venture 2018

The biggest opening of 2018, featuring two state-of-the-art, newly built kitchens, air conditioning, induction stoves, smoking chimneys. One serving high quality all day dining, the other fine dining lunch & dinner both aiming for Michelin standard cuisine.

The very best ingredients, respectfully treated, creating light elegant dishes, organic & theatrical. The restaurant is a unique, beautifully designed space, all bespoke tableware. Looking for Sous, Chef de Partie, Commis, Baking & Pastry positions

Click here to read more and apply

jobs  

"Better than in Rome", says Jay Rayner of Palatino

Despite having to relocate, Grace Dent thinks Joe Allen is still up to its old tricks

Sandwich slices: the working lives behind Pret A Manger and Greggs

What's behind the rise of the tasting menu?

Mon 25 Dec

Sun 31 Dec

Weds 3 Jan

Thurs 4 Jan

Fri 5 Jan



2017 has been a tricky year for restaurants with some high profile closures. As it draws to a close, The Dumbwaiter hears that the second outpost of the Modern Pantry in Finsbury Square has closed.

The Dumbwaiter was amused to read in Fay Maschler’s review of the new Dishoom last week that “the O’Loughlin” is used by some in the reviewing trade as slang for the crappy seats by the loo in a restaurant. Maitre d's, take note!

David Beckham seems to dine out more than The Dumbwaiter these days. He was spotted dining at the three Michelin star The Araki in Mayfair last week. Well jel.

From South Bank to St Germain. Click here to read The Dumbwaiter’s best bites of the week.


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