Russell Norman

‘It’s the sizzle, not the steak’. I’ll never forget Russell Norman teaching me this phrase as we perched at the counter of Polpo on Beak Street not long after it first opened, writes Adam Hyman.

Although reciting one of his many fun stories about a restaurant in New York, all of Russell’s restaurants had that sizzle. He changed the way we dine out and the settings in which we do so. No reservations, small plates, dimly lit squirrel cage light bulbs, £5 negronis, proper music playlists, funky servers. He bottled up elements of lower Manhattan restaurants, via Venice and Tuscany for the food, and brought a special sort of magic to London with Polpo, Spuntino, Polpetto and Brutto. He showed us how to have fun when dining out.

Russell was a friend. He was a mentor. He was a hero of mine. He was so generous in his hospitality, his time, his advice, his anecdotes, and he loved looking after people. He seemed at his happiest when doing so in his restaurants, and when he was writing. I remember the time we took a train to a restaurant outside London for lunch with a bottle of Champagne for the journey. Out came his favourite Duralex tumblers neatly wrapped in gingham napkins from a tote bag. I’ll miss his witty Instagram stories about grammar, his collection of quirky eyewear, his love of restaurants. I’m going to miss him most of all.

The articles written and all the social media posts over the past few days show not only how much he was respected by our industry but also how much he was loved. My thoughts are with his family and loved ones at this time. That sizzle may have gone, but his legacy will live on. It just won’t be the same without you, dear Russell. Rest in peace.

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Morchella

The team behind hit restaurant Perilla in Newington Green will open a new project, Morchella, in Exmouth Market in February next year. Chef-patron Ben Marks and restaurateur Matthew Emmerson have teamed up with chef Daniel Fletcher, who was last found at the stoves of 28 Market Place in Somerset, to launch a restaurant and wine bar serving ‘modern interpretation of classic Mediterranean dishes.’ On the menu will be dishes such as octopus luciana, salt baked poussin, and hake with sobrassada sauce. Marks said: ‘We are absolutely thrilled to be opening in Clerkenwell. We feel we’ve found a beautiful site and put together a really talented and experienced team.’ A press release said Morchella will be a ‘tranquil yet informal space’ and produce will come from British fishers and farmers alongside respected suppliers from the Continent. Emmerson added: ‘We hope Morchella will be an extension of the vibrant community we've built at Perilla. We're bringing that same neighbourhood warmth to Exmouth Market, with exceptional food and great wines.’

Small plates

• The businessman behind the Creams chain of dessert parlours has joined three others to launch Shrimp Shack in Streatham. Promised by the group is a concept celebrating prawns, with a ‘build your own’ seafood plate the main event. Co-founder and director Balal Aqil said: ‘We wanted to launch something totally unique that is different from the hundreds of burger chains around, which is where the idea of grilled shrimp came from.’ 
   
• Robin Gill has announced his Zebra Riding Club restaurant, together with Birch members’ club and hotel in Cheshunt, has closed after Birch went into administration. The hotel website confirms the news, while the new site in Croydon has been allowed to stay open while the business looks for a buyer. ‘This has come as a huge shock to me and all the team at Birch,’ Gill said. ‘We had to down tools with immediate effect yesterday.’
   
• Native founders Imogen Davis and Ivan Tisdall-Downes have partnered with Restaurant Associates to provide consulting services. Long champions of sustainable dining, the pair have created a range of seasonal menus for use across the group, and join a roster of chefs featuring the likes of Michel Roux, Jason Atherton, and Dipna Anand. 
   
• Restaurant Story will reopen in January next year and reservations for Tom Sellers’ new-look restaurant are now open. The main restaurant downstairs remains, while a new dining area above has been installed. Sellers' two-star restaurant, housed in a former Victorian public toilet block in Bermondsey, celebrates its 10th anniversary this year. 
   
• Veganism’s sudden slide back into obscurity continues after the hype of a few years ago. The plant-based burger chain Neat Burger has confirmed it will close four sites in London due to a ‘decrease in footfall.’ Neat Burger told The Caterer that the closures are part of a ‘strategic step in our broader plan for future expansion,’ which will focus on smaller stores across multiple cities in Europe.
   
• Hot Dinners brings us news of a new development in Pimlico, opening as part of the new Newson's Yard arcade of shops. Wildflowers is the development's food and drink element and comes from chef Aaron Potter, former executive chef at Maria G's and before that, head chef at Elystan Street. Potter is currently popping up around town with a supper club called ‘Modern European.’

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Out and about
where the CODE team ate this week

From prawn heads at Kolae to ramen at Kanada-Ya, the CODE team has been busy dining out. Follow us on TikTok and Instagram to find out what to order, when to go and what the vibe is.

This week on CODE's table:
Burrata pizza at Pizzeria Mozza
Frosty Mont Blanc donut from Donutelier
Cha-Mori ramen at Kanada-Ya
Rock shrimp & sushi at Zuma Maldives
Sunday roast at Bistro Bleu in The Rubgy Tavern
Prawn heads at Kolae
Christmas spiced duck mazesoba ramen at Tonkotsu
Smash burger & waffle fries at MANNA at Arcade
Tomato & egg knife shaved noodle at Lanzhou Lamian Noodle Bar
Cod at The Eagle
Nasu dengaku at Pham Sushi
K dog ramen at Bone Daddies
Babka french toast at The Good Egg

If you've been dining out with CODE, we want to know - send us your photos, videos or write a review and we'll reshare.