Happy Holidays from Rosati Family Winery
We wish you happy holidays. What better time to celebrate one of the Bay Area’s newest recipients of the coveted Michelin Star rating, Baumé. Sequestered on the quiet side of Old Palo Alto, you can discover this treasure, claimed by many patrons to have the most genuinely novel food in the San Francisco area.
“I have never had such a journey; thanks for your ten treasures. I’ll be back.”
Yelp August 2010
The seeds of genius are seldom visible. And, those of Chef Bruno Chemel are not easily unearthed.
Chef Chemel was raised in Moulins in France in the Auvergne region. He says that his mother was a great cook, and, perhaps, this influenced his choice of a culinary career. But, maybe more apparent was his father’s love of fine dining. During his formative childhood, his father took them frequently to Michelin rated restaurants throughout France. Initially, his father, the owner of a specialized automotive repair operation, was against his son’s desire to enter the field of culinary arts. But, he acquiesced.
His first apprentice job was at a one star Michelin restaurant that was owned by a friend of his father. It was a small locale run by a young, intense and tough chef. There were just eight tables and three employees, including the dishwasher. Starkly real; he learned quickly and earnestly that this was his true calling.
He was a top graduate of the culinary school in Moulins while working at the two star Jean-Pierre Billoux à Dijon. Here there were 12 tables and a few more culinary staff, including a pastry chef! He gave serious thought to a life style change of winter skiing and summers at the French Riviera, but he was swayed to move to Paris.
The buzz and the pace of Paris matched well with his personality. He worked at Disavoir, a new restaurant at the time, which earned a one star Michelin rating during his tenure.
He went on to teach with Chef Joel Robuchon at the LETNA Institute in France. He also graduated from the Lenotre Pastry Academy in Paris, received Certificats De Travail at three star establishments, Le Vivarois, Le Grand Vefour and Guy Savoy. He recently was given an old photo of himself and his colleagues at Le Grand Vefour; “we were kids running a business!”
The lure of New York began to tug at him. He interviewed with the Executive Chef of Le Chantilly who hired him. By the time he received his Visa, the Chef had left. Although he spoke no English, the owner reassured him and he flourished as the Executive Chef for two years. Bruno, who had relished his life in Paris, rapidly realized that New York City moved 1,000 times faster and he was enthralled
Next, Japan attracted him. He moved to Tokyo and worked at the Keio Plaza at the Ambrosia restaurant for four years as the Executive Chef. The precision, the cleanliness, and the education around macrobiotic technology were all completely intriguing.
He thought the next logical step was to own a restaurant. He and a partner created Cliquo near Honolulu-but not near enough. The going was tough at a 20 minute driving distance from the mainstream of Waikiki Beach. Two years later, he returned to the mainland not certain of his plans.
He chose San Francisco where he decided to express himself through his pastries. With the assistance of a fine chocolatier from Moulins, he created a line of chocolates and, ultimately, the company Les Palets d’Or. This was a thriving business both at retail and on-line until the .com crash.
After the first part of 2000, he returned to the restaurant business. There were a few attempts in San Francisco proper. One day he read that the Chef of Chez TJ’s had departed. He applied and was hired. While there, he earned his own first one star Michelin rating.
In January of 2010, Chef Chemel found the current location on the east end of California Avenue for his tranquil restaurant. His wizardry and balancing of high tech molecular gastronomy and sous vide with fresh ingredients amaze his customers. He likes to think of his style as the blending of French Cuisine Moderne with a Zen touch.
“This place changes taste buds and how you think about food.”
Yelp December 2010
Fortunately, Tim Augello, the restaurant’s highly talented Sommelier and General Manager, also reads newspapers! In Feburary, Tim was reading the San Jose Mercury and noticed an article about Baumé. He applied immediately.
Tim has earned his secondary sommelier’s degree, Certified Sommelier. His beginnings were humble as he worked during high school at corporate food establishments. For many years before joining Baumé, Tim worked at Manresa. He first worked as a server and then gradually, while studying, earned the role of Assistant Sommelier. The Sommelier did significant travel so often Tim was acting in the lead position.
Not one, though, to put his career on hold, he began to search out new more advanced positions. One of the Chefs, Chef Isaac Miller, had left Manresa to join 231 Ellsworth in San Mateo. He enjoyed his one year here as Maitre ‘D working alongside Richard Milkovich. When offered, Tim jumped at the chance to partner with Chef Chemel where he now leads the front of the house.
Tim has organized an elite wine program. While carrying a few mainstream brands, he seeks out unique flavor qualities of wines from around the world. He keeps mental notes on his tastings. Given that Baumé is a place for those gourmands who look for completely out of the ordinary experiences, Tim has many occasions to test his choices and his talents.
Rosati Family Winery is thrilled to be included in the Baumé wine program. Tim says he was immediately drawn to our wines from a cooler Mendocino county climate. The reserved and complex nature is more likened to an Old World wine than a big California Cabernet. He also likes our accompanying story. He prefers smaller boutique production wines where the owners are involved with the vines, the harvest, the crush, the winemaking, the bottling. “It is a magical essence.”
May your holidays be tranquil and may the New Year bring you much joy. And, we hope you will savor our current 2005 vintage in the company of family and friends with your own amazing dishes.
Danelle and Mario
back to top Filet Au Poivre
Recipe courtesy of Chef Bruno Chemel
Serves 2
2 x 6 oz fillet steaks
1 tsp cubeb pepper
(This is a specific type of pepper but any black or green or pink peppercorn can substitute)
2 tbs grape seed oil
2-3oz/50 to 75gm butter
1 tbs dijon mustard
3 tbsp Cognac
2 oz veal or beef jus
Take the two fillet steaks, place them on a dish and press the pepper onto one cut side of each steak only and press it into the meat with the heel of your hand to ensure it is well attached. Then season with salt.
Heat the grape seed oil in a frying pan and add the steaks pepper side down and cook briskly for three to five minutes or until that first side is crusted and brown.
Turn over the meat and cook for one minute. Tip out the grape seed oil and remove the meat from the pan. And add the Dijon mustard and stir with wood spatula.
Add the Cognac and flame for a few seconds to cook off the alcohol. Add the stock, bring to the boil and add the remaining butter. Reduce to a syrupy consistency. Then add the steak into the sauce.
Transfer the steaks to warm plates and add the juices that seeped out of the meat to the pan. Adjust the seasoning and then spoon the sauce over the steaks. Serve immediately.
Note: Could use green vegetable such as haricot vert or broccolini.
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