[UPDATED: This information was originally shared in the October Newsletter. It has been updated as new resources and recommendations have been shared.]
Many of you and your trees have been affected by the rampant wildfires throughout the state. The COOC has been liaising throughout the industry with those who have experienced similar damage in the past, and those representing chemistry labs, to determine what the implications of this damage (if any) may be.
At this point, the information is not conclusive. Based upon information shared from producers, lab managers and online resources, we have included below our best recommendations for assessing and minimizing smoke flavor transferring from the fruit to the oil.
The exposure to smoke can lead to the presence of Benzo(a)pyrene which can be measured, as well as sensory issues.
Currently, there are no limits in the olive oil regulation for USA for Benzo(a)pyrene, but in other countries this limit is about 10-15 ppb. While not listed in the US Standard, Benzo(a)pyrene is included in the list of Prop 65 (toxic chemicals) which is sometimes requested when trading oil.
More information: https://oehha.ca.gov/proposition-65/chemicals/benzoapyrene
Additionally, there is considerable concern that ash coating on the outer skin of the fruit could lead to a defect if not properly washed off prior to milling. In order to mitigate contamination:
-Ensure any smoke-impacted fruit is washed thoroughly prior to milling
-Ensure that the water from any tainted fruit is completely changed in the mill and not recirculated
-Crush with slightly larger grids that you would normally use to avoid emulsification in processing due to excess water
-Limit malaxing times to no more than 45’ to 1 hour max at the lowest possible (but reasonable) temperature
Additional Resources:
Smoke Taint - The Australian Wine Research Institute
Note that this resource refers to the effect on grapes, and not all information is transmissible to olives.
Smoke Taint in Olives - McEvoy Ranch Fresh Press Blog
Six Misconceptions About Smoke Taint - Wines & Vines Blog
Thank you to Chris Calvert (Ciarlo Fruit and Nut), McEvoy Ranch, Natalia Ruiz (Modern Olives) and Lilliana Scarafia (Agbiolab) for sharing information with COOC and its members.