C. Caramanico on the Web

As a means to better serve our customers, we have launched a new website. This newly designed site includes the following features:

• New Updates/Blog - containing up-to-date tips and project updates

• Interactive Portfolio - showcasing completed projects

• Weather Section - featuring real-time weather data

• Contact and Quote Forms - to get requested information to clients quickly

• Services Sections - providing detailed service information for clients

• Testimonials - hear what our clients have to say

• About - learn about our management team, company values and history of service

Please visit us on the Web. Find inspiration for your next project, seasonal tips, or just stop by to say "hello"!

Thatch is an Invisible Menace Threatening Many Lawns

Thatch is the tightly matted layer of living and dead grass stems, crowns and roots that accumulates between the zone of green foliage and the soil. A small amount of thatch is acceptable, providing a cushion and insulating the soil. However, when thatch builds beyond about 1/2", the disadvantages can make themselves known very quickly.

Thatch Creates Serious Turfgrass Problems

Among the problems you can expect from excessive thatch are: increased disease and insect populations; localized dry spots; chlorosis; increased scalping; and decreased heat, cold and drought hardiness.

Increases in leaf spot, dollar spot and brown patch activity have all been connected to heavy thatch. Chinch bugs and many other damaging insects find thatch an almost ideal living and feeding area.

Not only does thatch increase the likelihood of these pests, but the effectiveness of many fungicides and insecticides is severely reduced by excessive thatch. Many pest controls become trapped in the thatch itself and are unable to reach the soil and root zone. When this occurs, the thatch must be opened, removed or cultivated before effective control of damaging diseases or insects can be achieved.

Thatched turf also becomes "hydrophobic," which means that once the thatch dries, water cannot penetrate to the soil area beneath. This condition leads to dry spots that simply shed water. Hillsides are especially hard hit by this problem since thatch acts just like a thatched roof and prevents water, fertilizer and pest controls from reaching the soil.

Increased scalping due to excessive amounts of spongy thatch can be seen in hot months, and chlorosis (or yellowing) of the turf is also common when thatch has been allowed to become too heavy.

Finally, in an excessive thatch situation, the crowns, rhizomes (surface roots) and stolens are elevated above the soil surface and exposed to much greater temperature extremes than when they are firmly planted in the earth. This results in reduced water absorption and increased drought and temperature stress. A heavily thatched lawn uses water less efficiently and reacts more quickly to changes in temperature and lack of water.

Causes of Thatch

There are many factors that can contribute to thatch buildup. Very aggressive, fast-growing grass varieties stimulate thatch accumulations, as do acidic conditions, poor aeration, excessive nitrogen fertility, and infrequent or excessively high mowing.

Anything that interferes with the microbial activity needed for thatch decomposition increases thatch. Acidic conditions, dryness and low oxygen levels all impair micro-organism activity and have a negative effect on thatch levels. When infrequent mowing removes more of the plant than just the grass blades, stems and other more fibrous parts are returned to the thatch zone. This results in heavier thatch, because these plant parts are more resistant to decay.

Prevention and Cure

One of the keys to good turf management is to monitor the thatch level and take preventive measures before the thatch builds to a point where complete removal is the only option.

A vertical cross section of the sod should be cut to measure the actual thatch thickness. Usually, a thatch layer of up to 1/2" is acceptable. Ideally, the cycle of thatch buildup and breakdown would maintain a small amount of thatch for soil insulation and to provide a cushion on the turf. Soils and turf types vary greatly in their thatching habits, and the proper balance of cultural practices for thatch control must be applied to each individual property.

Thatch builds up faster on fine-grained, poorly drained soils (like clay) than on those that are open and well-drained. Many of the micro-organisms responsible for thatch decay require air, which is less available in heavy and compacted soils. Heavy soils should be aerated or otherwise cultivated to improve thatch decomposition.

Checking the pH of the soil is important. Well-managed turfgrass tends to become acidic, which slows thatch breakdown. Often, the thatch layer itself is much more acidic than the soil. The best microbial action is achieved when the pH is near neutral. Because of this, frequent, light applications of lime are sometimes beneficial in keeping thatch under control.

Top-dressing is the process of spreading a thin layer of soil over the thatch. This is a very effective means of thatch control, but not generally practical on any but small areas.

Turf Cultivation Provides the Best Form of Thatch Control

Mechanical cultivation is the best way to control and cure thatch problems. Cultivation of turf has special requirements. Unlike a garden or field cultivation, turf must not be disturbed beyond its ability to quickly recover.

Turf cultivation can be done by means of vertical mowing (or verti-cutting), which slices through and removes a portion of the thatch. This process usually brings some soil to the surface and mixes it with the remaining thatch to speed thatch breakdown. Vertical mowing also opens the thatch to allow penetration of water, air and fertilizer to the root zone.

Another method of cultivation is core aeration. This system is usually less expensive and less disruptive to the existing turf than vertical mowing. The cores pulled from the soil become a top-dressing as they "melt" down. The aeration pockets create growth zones for the root system while allowing improved penetration of air, water, fertilizer and pest controls into the soil.

For additional information, give us a call anytime.

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Planning Improves the Value of Landscape Care

How often have you heard yourself or someone else talk about how they're always putting out fires? Many of these "fires" are caused by not being able to get far enough ahead of ourselves to plan properly. Planning grounds and landscape care is too often left until the last possible date before services actually need to begin. There are many good reasons to take the time to think through your needs for next season well in advance and arrange for getting the work done. The further in advance these types of decisions are made, the smoother and more cost-effective your overall program can be.

Take a close look at what services you received during the last several seasons - at their effectiveness and their cost - in evaluating future needs. Bear in mind that your landscape will be another year older too. As your plantings mature, their maintenance needs change. Your program of care should not remain static, but rather attempt to reflect the current requirements of your property. Equipment, material and labor considerations will also have an impact on your program and its cost. All of these areas require and deserve your careful consideration.

Take Advantage of More Expert Attention by Working Ahead

The careful analysis of your property required to prepare a proposal covering both your basic and conditional requirements is not accomplished quickly. Even if you employ an ongoing system of evaluation throughout the season, a thorough review of your program should be done annually to ensure the most on-target adjustments to your planned schedule of services. There is a wealth of expert knowledge available for this process. However, waiting until the last few weeks before your old contract or budget expires can deprive you of the chance to tap into this assistance.

With the right guidance, you can have a more effective program. Having to make decisions in a hurry means everyone is formulating bids and proposals under pressure, and there's a good chance that important factors may be overlooked. A generalization often made in specifying maintenance programs is that next year will be the same as last. Although this is sometimes a valid assumption, more often than not, it fails to account for seasonal and organizational changes that have an impact on property maintenance needs. Working ahead gives both you and your contractor time to do the job right. Accounting for probable changes or additions to your program in advance will result in better scheduling, fewer mid-season surprises and more efficient use of funds.

Determining Changes in Property Needs is an Important First Step

Before proposing or purchasing grounds care services, take a look at any ways in which the needs of your property are likely to change during the coming year. Here are several questions you may want to answer before making final decisions:

1. Is there any new construction anticipated or scheduled for the coming year? Building additions or remodeling tend to cause unusual damage or disruption of the existing landscape and require some form of repair work. Does the construction project have a landscaping budget? Large projects often have specifications (and budgets) built in, while smaller jobs often deal with landscaping needs as an afterthought. If you're responsible for this type of new planting, you want to be sure you've got all the details in advance, or at least note the upcoming projects as contingent expenses for the coming year.

2. Has the purpose or use of your property changed in ways that will affect your grounds care needs? Will there be more foot or vehicle traffic requiring special attention? Will there be more visitors for whom the appearance of the landscape should be especially attractive? Are there any unusual events scheduled (grand opening, open house, special meetings, etc.) that may call for more floral displays, special treatments or additional mowing, trimming or clean-up?

3. If yours is an older landscape, do you have a systematic plan for rejuvenating a section or area of the property each year? This is an effective way of spreading landscape renewal expenses over several years while "keeping up" with the aging of your plants.

4. Were there particular problems that developed last season which should be corrected during the year ahead? Areas to note here might include: irrigation systems, drainage problems, unusual turf loss requiring reseeding or sodding, or a significant change in the use of a neighboring property that necessitates the installation of a landscape screen to block visibility. Each property's special problems are unique and should be evaluated carefully before determining a final schedule.

5. If you've experienced recurring plant loss in recent years due to winter weather, plant age or other reasons, the causes should be isolated and corrected if possible, and an allowance for plant replacement should be included in the budget.

6. Finally, look at the "special" services that were necessary over the past few years. If there are items that come up nearly every season but are not included in your basic proposal or contract, consider including them up front. This will optimize your scheduling and avoid the delays in completing needed work that are so often caused while seeking mid-season decisions and approval.

Determine What is Needed, and When

Proper care of your property involves many decisions about materials, labor, equipment and timing. It's in everyone's best interest to settle these issues as far in advance as possible. Below is a partial listing of the tasks to consider in planning your maintenance program for the coming season.

Turfgrass Maintenance

What frequency should be planned for the mowing schedule? Should clippings be collected on all areas of the property or only on some? Should concrete walks and drives be knife-edged? If so, how often? Where does line-trimming need to be done? Do walks and drives need to be cleared of clippings by blowing them off after each mowing?

Bed & Ornamental Maintenance

When should clean-up and edging of beds take place? What type of mulch should be used, and how much should be applied? How often will ornamentals need to be pruned and shaped? Will weed control be done with spot chemical treatments, by hand or both?

Chemical Care

When will fertilizers and weed controls be applied to your lawn? Is any unusual scheduling necessary? Will special insect or disease applications need to be made to your turf? What disease and insect applications will be needed for your trees and shrubs? Does deep-root feeding need to be scheduled? Should a winter application of antidesiccant be planned?

Other Considerations

• Work needed on an irrigation system

• New landscape installations or replacements

• Seasonal floral displays

• Chemical trimming of foundations or fences

• Turf renovation (seeding or sod)

• Traffic control and screening projects

• Aquatic weed and algae control

• Growth retardants for hard-to-maintain areas

Maintaining your property in top form while delivering the best possible value is a complex process requiring careful planning and ongoing cooperation. Working together with C. Caramanico & Sons, Inc. to prepare a comprehensive plan of care in advance will improve the quality of your program and minimize unforeseen and unwelcome surprises throughout the season. Give us a call anytime for more information.

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Getting Annual Weeds Before
They Get You

One of the most beautiful parts of any really attractive landscape is what isn't there. The things that are missing can give your entire property a smooth, finished look that is an unmistakable sign of good management and careful maintenance. We're talking about the absence of crabgrass and other annual weeds. These infamous invaders of otherwise manicured lawns, flower beds and foundation plantings appear out of nowhere soon after the soil warms up in the spring. Sprouting from seed each year, annual weeds quickly put down roots and develop into a variety of unsightly clumps of stalky stems with grasping leaves and clinging vines. These unwelcome visitors energetically go to work smothering good grass, creeping over the edges of walks and drives, climbing fences and generally giving the properties they inhabit a ragged and unkempt look.

Because of the Life Cycle of Annuals, Pre-Emergent Control is Possible

With plants, the term "annual" refers to any species that completes its entire life cycle in a single season. This means it germinates from seed, grows to maturity, produces its own seed and dies - all within a few short months. In contrast, perennials live on from year to year. Unfortunately, the faster-growing, more aggressive annuals - like crabgrass - have an advantage in the ongoing struggle for available growing space. Most annuals also produce a tremendous number of seeds during their short life. Even though they live only one year, annuals do a good job of propagating their own kind through seed. As an example, consider crabgrass. A single plant can produce between 2,000 and 4,000 seeds to be deposited into the soil of your property in just one year. A basic key in effective annual weed reduction programs is the use of pre-emergent weed controls applied before these thousands and thousands of seeds begin sprouting in the spring.

A pre-emergent herbicide operates by attacking seeds just as they begin to open or germinate. Before they can emerge, these weeds make contact with the pre-emergent material and are stopped cold before they ever see the light of day. Properly timed and applied, one or two pre-emergent applications per season can virtually eliminate several annual weed problems from your property without the need for follow-up, post-emergent treatments.

Most pre-emergents are non-selective. They stop both annual and perennial seeds within the control zone at the very beginning of germination. This feature makes pre-emergents helpful in perennial as well as annual weed control when used as part of an overall program that includes post-emergent herbicides in conjunction with pre-emergent applications. For both annual and perennial weed control, pre-emergent herbicides are effective tools on nearly every part of your property.

Pre-Emergent Use Expands to Meet Higher Standards and Reduce Labor Costs

Groundskeepers of highly maintained properties will probably always have some weeds to remove by hand, but pre-emergents can greatly reduce this labor-intensive practice. Improvements in chemical technology have impacted the expectations and appearance standards of many property owners and managers. Areas routinely considered for pre-emergent programs include all turf areas, all planting beds, fence lines, building foundations, unpaved parking areas and drainage ditches. The appearance of these areas can be substantially improved at very reasonable costs through the use of pre-emergent herbicides. The degree to which control is achieved is influenced by temperature, moisture, soil type and cultural practices, so the level of control may vary from season to season and property to property. Because there are so many variables, it's important to think in terms of control rather than eradication. Although total elimination may not be possible, results can be greatly improved with proper application, timing and follow-up care.

Get Professional Applications Based on
Training and Experience

The desirable plants growing in the areas to be treated and the weeds you want to control will determine which pre-emergent materials and methods to use. Trained professionals have expertise in matching your needs with the proper product. Beyond closely following all label instructions, there are other basic principles that apply to most pre-emergent herbicides.

Nearly all pre-emergents operate in the top inch or so of the soil profile. It's in this zone that seeds can become warm enough to germinate. So, the herbicide must establish a barrier or control zone in this part of the soil. Many pre-emergents are light-sensitive and undergo a loss of potency with prolonged exposure to sunlight. To ensure maximum control and to establish their control zone, these herbicides must be washed into the soil profile. The length of time in which this must occur varies with different products, but generally, if there has been no rainfall within three to seven days after a pre-emergent application, irrigation is advised.

For the same reason, pre-emergent treatments to mulched planting beds should be done immediately before the mulch is actually spread. One very effective pre-emergent for mulched beds begins to break down after only a few hours of exposure to sunlight. Mulch applied immediately cuts off the sunlight and the loss of potency. Product distribution is another element of the application method that affects results. Both granular and liquid pre-emergents have limited lateral mobility once washed into the soil. Complete coverage of the area to be treated is essential. Also, there are "hot spots" for annual weed production (along pavement, in thin stands of turf and anywhere there was a large population last year) that should receive slightly higher application rates.

Timing of pre-emergent treatments should be scheduled prior to weed germination whenever possible. Germination is primarily determined by soil temperature, so it follows that weeds will emerge earlier on a south-facing slope than on the shaded north side of a building. Applications should usually be made prior to weed emergence in the warmest areas of the property. Some pre-emergent products deliver post-emergent control of very young annual weeds. Using this type of material makes applications slightly less time-sensitive.

Follow-up care should include the initial irrigation mentioned earlier to move the herbicide into the soil. It's also very important to preserve the control barrier by not disturbing the soil in any of the treated areas. Heavy raking, dethatching and the use of knife edgers on sidewalks are a few examples of the ways the barrier can be broken mechanically. Disruption of the soil will reduce pre-emergent effectiveness and should be carefully evaluated or avoided completely. Regular irrigation is advised to prevent soil cracking due to dryness - another way the pre-emergent control barrier can be broken.

Pre-emergent herbicides play a key role in any integrated grounds management program. By guarding your lawns and planting beds against unwanted weeds, these herbicides help to ensure that one of the most beautiful parts of your property will continue to be the crabgrass and other weeds that simply never appear. Give C. Caramanico & Sons, Inc. a call anytime to learn more.

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The Best Turf is Just for Playing Around

You may not realize that the lawns that get the very best care are on baseball, football and soccer fields...and, of course, golf courses.

All of the care these lawns receive is not just for good looks. With the kind of heavy use sporting fields receive, intensive care is essential.

Good Turf Helps to
Prevent Injuries

Uneven, thin or clumpy turf on a playing field can cause player injury. Extremely hard, non-irrigated surfaces can lead to twisted ankles, broken bones or worse.

Playing fields and golf courses keep their lawns in top shape by very carefully doing all of the things we suggest for our customers' lawns. Practices like consistent watering, good mowing habits, making sure there is good drainage, careful fertilization and pest control are the ingredients.

Renovation plays a big part too, and includes aeration, slit-seeding and top-dressing. Virtually every golf course and most sports complexes have full-time staff, plus outside services to make sure their turf is kept in top condition for all the "playing around" that goes on.

Spring-Blooming
Trees for a Livelier Landscape

Spring-flowering trees will not only add color and life to your landscape, but they'll increase property value as well. Plus, they'll provide shade, screening and noise control as they grow.

Some of the more popular spring-blooming trees include:

• Cherry

• Crabapple

• Crape Myrtle

• Dogwood

• Fringetree

• Hawthorn

• Magnolia

• Plum

• Redbud

• Serviceberry

• Tulip

• Lilac

By planting now, you can look forward to a beautiful spring-flowering display for years to come. Give us a call for more information on the spring-blooming tree varieties that will grow best in your area.

Hardscaping Adds Interest and Excitement

Remember...no property is complete without the right hardscaping elements. These architectural landscape additions are an excellent way to improve both the looks and value of your property while expanding your usable space outdoors.

Not sure what type of hardscaping is right for your needs? Consider the following:

• Brick, flagstone and paver patios/terraces

• Trellises

• Walkways

• Ponds and fountains

• Outdoor fireplaces and chimineas

• Decks (wood or synthetic)

• Retaining walls

• Gazebos

• Fences

Regardless of the hardscape feature you choose, you'll be adding a great source of interest and excitement to your property for all to see and enjoy. Give us a call anytime for more information. Or, check us out online at caramanicolandscape.com.

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6 Race Street - Upland, PA 19015 - www.caramanicolandscape.com - (610) 499-1640