The latest from Project Himalaya
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Dho-Tarap, Middle Dolpo
Hello everyone
A shout out to our previous trekkers and incredible trek staff, what a memorable year, what incredible trekking experiences - thank you!
We run truly unique treks to savour for a lifetime and, having just trekked a couple of New Zealand's Great Walks, I can confidently say our Ladakh and Nepal trek experiences are head and shoulders above. The vast Himalayan panoramas are so much more compelling; no crowded huts or full bunks or lines of day trippers, indeed we rarely even share a campsite or meet other trekkers on our wilder itineraries; no biting mosquitoes and sandflies and we see a greater variety of wildlife too. And the bonus is your duffel and meals arrive by magic!
So, I am attached to the Himalaya and for these reasons will continue to run treks mostly as a way to get back there rather than worrying about the bottom line.
For 2020, I'll spend the first half of the year in New Zealand working on family matters as both my parents died of old age recently. In part, this affects my Naar-Phu plans, however, I am talking with friends who just trekked the region with snow leopard conservation development in mind and will rehash how best to help with conservation and to run a trek up there. I still want to do this but am not sure when yet. Do message/call me to discuss.
See our future treks below!
Julley! Jamie (and Esther)
Horses are being replaced by motorbikes
2020 Middle Dolpo
New! It has been exciting researching the new "Schaller Trail" that explores routes less trekked between Dho-Tarap and Phoksundo Lake and as a 2020 bonus includes the Kagmara La too. There are a multitude of softer passes that lead to Shey and Upper Dolpo not on maps and while the fastest routes for the locals are well known, which are the best trekking routes that avoids the developing roads? We'll work this out.
This desire was prompted during our recently finished 42 day Upper Mustang to Dolpo trek where tractor and motorbike roads are making, well, inroads. We offered a forlorn farewell to Chharka as we know it, meeting the under construction road only a few kilometres out and a week later it must have reached the village, to much local celebration. The "road" from Tinje and the Chinese border is really a quickly bulldozed, rough tractor track enabling cheaper supplies to be dragged in by a 4 wheel drive farm tractor pulling a trailer carrying several tonnes of supplies at a time rather than by more picturesque jingling yak caravans. It is a decade away from being a jeep road for tourists, however, motorbikes are another matter, even if there is no connecting road yet to the south (it is in the works). Years ago, horse riders occasionally passed us, even with the Tibetan tongue out greeting as above, but now these new tracks are frequented by the Dolpo motorbike cowboys, zipping between villages with grandma as pillion. Hilariously, the Chinese bikes are decked out with knitted covers, tassels and Kollywood (Kathmandu Hollywood) or traditional Tibetan tunes blaring as an approach warning. It won't be too long before adventure tourists start bike trips out there either, though.
Do the tractor-motorbike roads "render the trekker lame?" as Tilman posited? We pondered that between Chharka, Tinje and Shimen. Walking along the wide bulldozed track is faster, no dodging prickle bushes, and meant on one stretch our one and a half days walking became one day, but that 6 hours was more tiring, I felt more impact from the longer distance and harder surface and we looked around less, and mostly forgot to search for wild animals on the cliffs above. The narrow ribbon of destruction is a distracting eyesore, although minor in the scheme of things and certainly more value to the locals than just a trekking trail. The motorbikes are not overwhelmingly disturbing but do require stepping aside and are noticeably smelly and noisy (what we put up with in cities is horrifying). Overall, for the first timer to the region, it is probably still worth trekking through this fascinating, culturally unique and scenic region, however the connoisseur might debate back and forth. Later, on minor trails, we all remarked on how pleasant venturing off major trails was. For myself I love the region but having crisscrossed Upper Dolpo half a dozen times, I will try a slightly different area still with the striking turquoise Phoksundo Lake - hence exploring Middle Dolpo ...
Ascending the Kanji La
Zanskar Canyons
Our major 2020 Ladakh trek is Zanskar Canyons, a long form 35 day traverse of the region in that ideal September time frame (a four week version is also possible). Already a couple of people are committed and I am really looking forward to the trek and indeed the whole season out there.
Road building has been slower than forecast, thankfully, and so we'll visit Phuktal and cross the Phirtse La one more time before cycling there instead. This also means our Zanskar Canyons route is substantially different from our Zanskar Spring itineraries, with only a few days over the Pandang La and Shade village in common but reversed.
The Great Divide, building on our previous explorations there, is now our main 2021 Ladakh trip.
The 2020 Skypacking trek will run with several keen and I am working on detailed web pages. We also have two private treks in the works, so a full summer season :)
A steep-sided gorge
2021 Winter Pilgrimage
The Chadar, the frozen river of Zanskar, is a legendary winter trek that is now shorter due to lengthening roads and rather too busy, mostly due to a BBC documentary.
However, in Nepal it turns out there is a frozen river trek in Nepal used by the locals to save multiple pass crossings that no outsiders have ventured on. Our "pilgrimage" will be the first ever trek on the ice and initially we will keep the location a secret, to protect the region rather than for commercial advantage.
Almost surprisingly, most days will be warm enough in the sun. The long evenings and nights will be frigid though, and any high country winter wind will be cutting. Being remote, it is a month long journey (three weeks trekking and a week exploring on the ice) and with domestic flights, not a budget trek either. Although winters are mostly dry in Nepal, there is a risk of difficult snow and so I have plans to cover most eventualities. Trekkers joining should be able to carry their personal clothing and sleeping bag for a day or two when venturing along the ice from our base camp (where we can leave excess gear). Early expressions of interest are essential.
For a taste of walking on ice, check out my 2009 Chadar album and step back in time (and web design) with Joel's classic Indian Chadar trek.
