This edition of Fantastic Man’s newsletter was conceived while listening to the double album ‘GmbH: An Anthology of Music for Fashion Shows 2016-2023 Vol. 1’. ■ It’s a trippy compilation of transinternational dubby noise, released on vinyl in a limited run of 500 copies, but available via streaming too. ■ GmbH are of course the Berlin-based masterminds behind my favourite double-zipper-flied denim shorts and much more, including a much needed political voice in fashion. 

The last time I bumped into GmbH’s BENJAMIN ALEXANDER HUSEBY and SERHAT ISIK was at the DIOR MEN show in Paris. Thanks for that smooth transition into the next subject: for a glorious 10-page story in the new issue of Fantastic Man, photographer PHIL ENGELHARDT and stylist MAKRAM BITAR shot the DIOR MEN summer collection featuring some familiar staples (polo shirts, 2-piece suit, striped poplin shirts) and some miraculous knits and beanie hats in the most eye-popping colours, worn by three young men: BILAL, FLORIAN and ZARAM. See page 100-109, or our new website.

Big congratulations to PATRICK GRANT with the release of his book ‘Less’, an impressive 300+ page account of his love for clothes and fashion and his discomfort with consumerism. ■ Readers will know GRANT from his various appearances in Fantastic Man (above, from 2010, by DANIEL RIERA), or as the impeccably dressed TV-host of ‘The Great British Sewing Bee’, or as the tireless force behind Savile Row label NORTON & SONS, the now defunct E. TAUTZ, and PATRICK’s current success project, the admirable COMMUNITY CLOTHING, who make great unfussy basics in their British factories. ■ PATRICK’s history lessons leave the impression that humanity is a failed project, while his autobiographical chapters are a great tutorial in determination and detail. (PATRICK exactly remembers what he wore on the day he lost his virginity, aged 16.) Did readers know that fifty years ago the average Brit owned 25 garments for which they paid 10% of their income, against 118 pieces of clothing today costing them 3% of their income. ■ It’s all quite shocking; the book is not titled ‘Less’ for nothing.

If you’re ever lost for a conversation topic, try to describe a colour, such as with this fascinating ‘Jackie 1961’ unisex bag from GUCCI, from our current issue. Is it pea green? The shade of young waterlily? Unripe organic lime? It’s the same with GUCCI’s unpindownable Ancora shade of red; colour poetry must be creative director SABATO DE SARNO’s speciality.

Oh, and another great new book, only really for Dutch readers, alas, is a collection of poems about clothes by TED VAN LIESHOUT. ■ An author and image maker mostly known for his enormous stream of childrens’ books, this collection ‘Ommouw me’ (which could be translated as ‘Besleeve me’) is a moving literary journey through his wardrobe. Such a good idea. Let’s start a fashion poetry competition!