On Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc
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Ah Christmas. ’Tis the most family-filled time of the year. Someone’s stressing about the symmetry of the Christmas tree decorations, while one aunt has realised she’s severely under-catered on the potato salad, and another can’t find her Christmas carol playlist (equal parts classic hymns and Michael Bublé). One cousin explains the truth of Father Christmas to the family baby, while a third compares their number of presents to everyone else’s, and a fourth has brought a new boyfriend fully hatched from the shire. There’s an uncle who’s spent the last month emailing How To Make The Perfect Turkey hacks, only to find out your parents have bought a pre-cooked turkey
from Hartlief.
The Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc is the cool older cousin who walks into this mayhem and is the balm to your strained soul. Her hoop earrings glinting in the sun, she is the safe golden corner you retreat to on the stoep to the background discussion on whether the oven could have fit an entire turkey.
With her intriguing initial struck match reductiveness and crisp yet oh-so-soft cling peach syrupy lightness, the Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc is effortless. A long-time subscriber of Architectural Digest and buyer of freshly cut flowers, her Spotify Wrapped personality was The Early Adopter (you instantly followed her top five artists who will become your top five next year). Even her hand-me-down Carrol Boyes serving spoons are a level of chic you aspire to. Like the MELI-FALI solo (are those wind chimes? A glockenspiel marimba? Musical bicycle spokes?), just when you thought you’d put your finger on her x-factor, she hits you with an unexpected salty grapefruit pithiness that you are 100% here for.
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Ken Forrester
Old Vine Reserve Chenin 2021
from Stellenbosch, South Africa
97 Points, Decanter
91 Points, Tim Atkin MW
Food Pairing: Can be served with varied spicy dishes, full flavoured fish or chicken dishes. Ideal with crayfish, prawns.A true benchmark for relaxed enjoyment.
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'We've had Chenin Blanc-based wines from the Loire in our Best In Show selection, but never yet a Chenin from the country with more of this variety planted than any rival nation: South Africa. That changed this year with this stylish Chenin from Stellenbosch. Gone was the sometimes over-fleshy, over-crafted style associated with ambitious Cape Chenins in the past. This pale gold, pure, fine-fruited wine hints at honey, spring flowers, pear and quince in its focussed, almost lacy aromas, while the palate is graceful and shapely, too, deftly balanced, and with a stony residuum that suggests deep-rooted old vines. An outstanding Chenin, in sum, perfectly pitched both as a varietal and as a Stellenbosch classic.'
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Inevitably someone at the Christmas table will debate the Harry & Meghan Netflix documentary, mention Eskom, or complain about the starting salary demands of Gen Zs. When that happens, the Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc is your escape or blessed distraction, pleasing everyone from your uncle who fancies himself a connoisseur because he drank Chateau Libertas in the ‘90s to your Sauvignon Blanc and ice loving auntie.
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