This goes to DIOR by JONATHAN ANDERSON, his third menswear show for the house, which opened with not just one but THREE consecutive great looks: super slouchy, almost transparent micro-check suits that looked like pyjamas, like glazing, like magic. ■ More of those!

Of course: our own party on Milan Fashion Weekend’s opening Friday night. ■ We hosted a dance cocktail in collaboration with MCM at bar Bene Bene, and it was FUN! DJ CURSES from Berlin was incredible (book him if you have something big to celebrate), as was his spinning buddy for the night, MCM’s own LIAD KRISPIN. We danced until 2am and swung by the MCM showroom slightly hungover the next day. ■ Design legend DIRK SCHÖNBERGER now oversees MCM, making its signature luggage chicer and chicer (the leather intarsia!) with a foxy fashion capsule to match. Have a look at this new campaign film. ■ Anyway, thanks everybody for joining us that hot & sweaty night. 

The soundtrack to the pretty amazing PRADA show (only variations on jeans and denim jackets, none rendered in actual denim) ended most astonishingly. ■ My memory of ‘The Lonely Shepard’ by JAMES LAST & GHEORGHE ZAMFIR was a case of cringe kitsch. But see, 49 years after its release, and in the right setting, it is in fact a stunningly beautiful, haunting piece of music…

I’m of the opinion that the second-best thing LEVI’S ever invented, after the 501, is its 1990s rib cotton henley T-shirt with the logo right below the button placket. It is a complete mystery why LEVI’S has never revived the garment properly, but I have noticed that prices for the originals are currently rocketing on Vinted. ■ And look, a hot new version of it – sleeveless, with deep-cut armholes – was spotted at Paris denim brand OUEST’s steamy, cruisy presentation. ■ Designer ARTHUR ROBERT quoted the photos that ALVIN BALTROP shot at the New York Piers and on building sites in the ’70s, and the gay clone look of 1980s Paris (CLAUDE MONTANA in a satin bomber) as his inspiration for the collection. Now, there’s nothing more heartbreakingly beautiful than BALTROP’s work, I love a clone, and the aforementioned rib henleys! ■ OUEST’s boxer shorts with side pockets, turning underwear into an actual practical pair of shorts, are a winner too.

These days no decent fashion show goes without a few hundred fans outside cheering for their idol, usually an East Asian celebrity from the world of music or film. ■ How about this superfan of Chinese pop artist KUN? Was he trying to get the artist’s attention, or maybe just there to sell balloons to other fans? We’ll find the answer – stay tuned, or if you already know, let us know via the reply button.

The concept of brand collaborations is NOT over, and judging from the presentations, there are some pretty good ones coming up for Spring Summer 2027. ■ RICK OWENS & ADIDAS, that’s a winner, even if you thought an onion-skin short couldn’t be made sexier than it already was. KIKO KOSTADINOV & OAKLEY for your best futuristic eyewear (above). SOSHIOTSUKI & ASICS shows that stunning tailoring in the best ARMANI tradition can indeed be worn with trainers. ■ LITERARY SPORT & XERO: our favourite Canadian running apparel teams up with a maker of minimalist knotted-rope slippers. CELINE and REEBOK, sure! SACAI with BROOKS BROTHERS, and so on and so forth. ■ Who wants to work alone?

Saving the very best for the last day of this men’s fashion show season: CELINE, designed by MICHAEL RIDER! It was his first men’s fashion show for the house of CELINE, full of clothes that felt urgent, modern, new, innovative, wearable, everything. ■ Something reminded me of the best shows HEDI SLIMANE did for DIOR HOMME a good 20 years ago – those moments when his unlimited desire for fashion innovation prevailed over his too obvious love for rock clichés. ■ RIDER’s CELINE felt free and fun and boundlessly ambitious. How much higher can fashion reach?

Regular Fantastic Man and BUTT contributor KUBA RYNIEWICZ is opening a show of his great photography (and the work of fellow Newcastle artist TISH MURTHA) at the BALTIC Art Centre in Newcastle upon Tyne tomorrow. It runs until 4 April next year, so you have time. ■ From the show, and from Fantastic Man no. 39, here’s a portrait of the great disrupting entertainer DAVID HOYLE. ■ Oh, there’s also an Art Car Boot Market tomorrow at the Baltic – that sounds like a destination too!