Who Goes There?

At 22,841 feet, Aconcagua is a natural draw for those looking to experience climbing at high altitudes. Given this is a non-technical climb, the mountain attracts (and is promoted to) climbers at every level. Novices to experienced climbers, trekkers to extreme athletes alike. 

Getting Ready?

Aconcagua is a physically demanding climb with substantial challenges including altitude, conditions, weather, and self-care. With a relatively low success rate for non-technical peaks, Aconcagua is well known for forcing early departures. During our last 32 years of climbing Aconcagua, we have identified the following key points to increase success on the mountain. 

Proper Training

Aconcagua is not an easy step up from Kilimanjaro as many assume. While you may train harder than ever before, it’s important to understand the rigors of the climb, how physically demanding a climb can be. A recommendation for training includes climbing a peak of shorter length beforehand (Rainier/Baker/Mt. Blanc). It is important to use a very defined training regimen specific to mountaineering. If this is new to you, we recommend hiring a personal or online trainer.

Proper Gear

Know and use your gear beforehand. Becoming familiar with your layering systems can greatly add to the comfort of your climb.

• Do you climb warm or cold? 
• Are you training with the footwear you are climbing in?
• Does being too warm or too cold greatly affect your performance?
• Does your backpack fit well, and does it properly distribute weight to your upper and lower body?

Self-Care

Perhaps the most underestimated of the needed preparations, is knowing your body well, which will help you on demanding days, as well as add a level of safety.  Closely related to gear and training and equally important, ask yourself the following:

• Are you familiar with how your body responds to the demand of an extreme physical challenge based on past experiences? 
• Do you know how your body feels and responds to different levels of fatigue?
• Do you know you have enough nutrients and energy needed for the day?
• Do large food intakes at mealtimes slow you down, does your body respond well to power bars and food supplements?
• Can you tell when you need more water before you are dehydrated? Do drink mixes/supplements make a difference for you?

The Routes

Though many names are used for the routes on Aconcagua (Vacas Valley, Horcones Valley, Polish Variation) there are 2 primary routes:

Normal Route / Ruta Normal

This is the most climbed route and has the advantage of utilizing a well-appointed basecamp where acclimatization hikes can be staged from. These day hikes (with low pack weight) let you spend more time at a permanent, relatively comfortable camp with amenities. (This can be less taxing than the Vacas Valley Route which requires carrying or moving to camps daily). After acclimatization and day hikes, climbers then directly ascend to summit. (*Alpine Ascents builds porters into the program to carry all group gear). This route is recommended for climbers with limited mountaineering experience.

Vacas Valley

Generally, less crowded than the Normal Route, this route gradually ascends the mountain using a series of moves and carries up the mountain. (We carry gear to an upper camp, return to lower camp and the following day carry the remaining gear to the upper camp and spend the night. Rest days may also be utilized). This route is recommended for those with climbing experience as the daily moves between camps are demanding and those with prior experience tend to perform better.

Pack Weight and Porters

Normal Route

This route requires carrying all your gear once we begin to ascend the mountain. (Earlier acclimatization hikes utilize a lower pack weight) *Alpine Ascents hire porters (included in cost) so that climbers only carry personal gear but not group gear. Pack Weight: 35-40lbs

Vacas Valley Route

This route utilizes carry days followed by move days to lower pack weights (as well as to help acclimate). Pack Weight: 45-50lbs

Porters

Porters can be hired for each route which would lower your pack weight to 20lbs. Porters will simply grab your gear and deposit the load at the next camp. Porters do not walk side by side with you as they do on Kilimanjaro.

Alpine Ascents Guide Selection

Alpine Ascents carefully selects guides to ensure high quality guiding on the mountain. As there are few US-based climbers who can effectively manage groups on Aconcagua (given the ever-changing scenarios with conditions and camps), we select a unique combination of US-based guides and Argentinean guide to manage our programs. All guides are prominently displayed on our website, allowing you to review their bios to find the best match.  Most of our local Argentinan guides have traveled to the US to train with us in Washington or Alaska.